By Jennifer Cognard-Black, Melissa A. Goldthwaite (ed.)
Foreword via Marion Nestle
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Additional resources for Books That Cook: The Making of a Literary Meal
I’d brought everyone except Penelope a ristra as a gift. Ronald drank too much and draped his string of chiles around his neck. Carson Flinn, who had recovered some of his mobility and lost some weight, said the rusty pepper chain would have a place of honor in his kitchen. “Eat it, too,” I reminded him. Cocoa wondered when she’d find time to eat so many peppers. I gave her a possible recipe from a tent at the corn dance. “Nothing but four or five of these peppers—they’re fairly mild—ground into beef, until it’s about half pepper, half beef.
My mother was generous and expansive in her cooking. Carson Flinn once told me that my father served food with heat, my mother with warmth. But on that day she served her information cold, with no meat on the bones. Perhaps that’s as it should have been. 42 • Thomas Fox Averill When she and my father were courting, mostly by letter for those two years after their initial meeting and evenings tasting food and getting to know each other, my mother took one trip to New Mexico my father never knew about.
Finally it was cooled and then chilled. The resulting jelly had the true essence of chicken and a texture that was incredibly delightful. I doubt if many people today want to eat chicken jelly unless they are ill or on a diet—the calorie count is low—but good chicken jelly has many uses in cooking. It gives a lift to vegetables cooked in it; it makes a fine Vichyssoise; and it provides the base for many excellent sauces. For a chaud-froid sauce it is incomparable. Nowadays I find that a more practical approach to this delicacy can be achieved as follows: Superb Chicken Jelly Place 5 pounds backs and necks in 3 to 4 quarts water, together with 1 onion stuck with 2 cloves, a sprig of parsley, a bit of celery and a few peppercorns.
Books That Cook: The Making of a Literary Meal by Jennifer Cognard-Black, Melissa A. Goldthwaite (ed.)